Sewing Broadfall Pants
This article provides instructions how to sew broadfall pants based on a regular fly pants pattern. Broadfall pants are not very common and instructions on how to sew them are rare. For more information about broadfall pants in general, see the separate page about broadfall pants.
A customizable pattern for a broadfall pants is available for free.
Creating the pattern
The first step is to create yourself a pattern. You can start with a regular pants pattern to be modified, or create one from scratch. There is a link to a website, explaining how to draft a pattern from scratch, in the resources list at the end of this page. Depending on your practice it is easiest to use a ready-made pattern as basis.
Add the flap to the pattern
To make a full flap pants, add the width of the finished waistband at the waistline.
and add additional 2" to the seam.
Place a mark where the flap is going to open. This depends on your size. I chose 6" below the original waistline, as seen in the pattern.
Pockets
At the waistline of the front piece, draft the pocket like shown below. Its width depends on your actual pattern size and preference. The pocket mark should be 1" below the flap mark. Its depth is also up to your choice. I chose 11½". For one complete pocket this pattern has to be mirrored.
Waistband
The waistband width is 2" and it should overlap by 2". After measuring your waist, add 4" and twice the seam allowance. Seam allowance has to be added twice to its width as well, for its final size.
Back pockets
Originally broadfall pants used to have no back pockets. But I still like to have them. I prefer the dotted part being around 5½". Add seam allowances as shown.
Cutting
Cut a left and right piece of each
- Front piece
- Back piece
- Back pocket
Additionally you need 11 buttons of the same size.
Sewing
Most of the sewing steps are similar to a regular pants.
Pockets
Start with sewing the pockets.
Serge side and 4" on the top side
Turn pocket wrong side facing up
Fold serged side 3" backwards to be in a straight line to the mark and pin.
Edge stitch the fold all around
Fold pocket in half with right sides together
Starting at the fold, serge the bottom and side of the pocket
Perform all steps mirrored with the other pocket piece
Pants
Serge all leg seams
Place back piece with right side up. Place front piece on top of it, right side facing down, aligned at the marks. Fold the front piece over to meet the flap mark and pin it.
Place pocket, with opening facing down, on top. Align all the corresponding marks. Sew the outside leg seam. Make sure to reinforce the seam at the flap mark.
Fold the leg with right sides together and close the inseam of the leg.
Serge the crotch seam.
Repeat these steps for the other leg of your pants.
When both are finished, turn one leg to the left, the other one to the right. Insert the leg with the right side facing out into the other leg.
Align and pin the crotch seam.
Close the crotch seam.
Sew the darts of the back pants, if your pattern has some.
Back pockets
Trim the corners at the bottom.
Serge the sides and bottom.
Fold top in ⅜" twice and edge stitch.
Fold the other edges in ⅜" and press.
Place the pockets to the back of your pants and pin it in place. Make sure the top edge is parallel to the waistline. The exact position is up to personal taste. I chose 3½" from the waistline and 1⅕" from the center back.
Edge stitch the pockets to the pants. Make sure to reinforce the stitch at the top of the pockets.
Waistband
Put both waistband pieces with right sides together.
Serge one long edge.
Turn it out and press the seam.
Place the right side of the waistband onto the left side of the backside of the pants. Align the centers of waistband and pants. The waistband should be on the inside of the pants. Fold the darts of the pants towards the center back and pin the pieces in place.
Serge the open edge of the waistband full around. This attaches the waistband to the pants.
Sew an additional seam at ⅜" from the waistline.
Sew the ends of the waistline at ⅜" width right sides together. Trim the corners and turn the waistband out.
Fold the waistband in ⅜" and pin it to the pant's waist seam.
Edge stitch the waistband all around.
Create a button hole on the left side of the waistband and sew a button on the right side.
Flap
Serge the top of the flap.
Fold the side seam allowance of the flap in, and pin.
Put the pants on and mark and fold the flap to the inside at the waistband. Adjust to fit your shape and preference and pin it in place.
Edge stitch the flap seam in one go from one flap mark to the other.
Hem
Create a regular hem for each leg by folding it in by 1" twice.
Flap Buttons
On the flap, mark two buttonholes in the corners, ¾" from the edges. Mark two further ones, evenly distributed over flap's width. The buttonholes in the corners may be angled at 45°.
After the buttonholes are done, put the pants on and pin the flap in place.
Mark the placements of the buttons on the waistband by sticking a marking pen through the top of the buttonholes.
Sew four buttons onto the waistband.
Suspender Buttons
Broadfall pants are traditionally worn with suspenders and need to have suspender buttons on the inside of the waistband.
Sew two buttons in the center back about 2⅓" apart. Make sure to only grasp the inner layer of the waistband because you don't want the thread to show on the outside.
For the front buttons, there is no fixed rule for their position. You need take your shoulder and hip width into consideration.
Just put the pants on and mark the positions where the suspenders look best.
Sew a pair of buttons each, again about 2⅓" apart.
Other variants
Instead of folded seams on the flap you can sew a facing instead.
External Resources
Draft Basic Pants Pattern
Placement and sewing suspender buttons
Sew Suspender Buttons
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